Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Praha

Friday night Megan, Tom, & I, along with Tom's roommate Jack, headed for FCO (also known as Fiumicino) to catch our flight to the Czech. In typical Italian style our flight left late and we got in at least a half an hour later than anticipated. Beyond the hunger though, it was no biggie, our hotel was already expecting us to arrive in the middle of the night. We knew it was going to be cold, but none of us really planned on -4 degrees celsius. All three of us told Jack in Rome that the shorts and t-shirt probably weren't the best idea - he promptly put a pair of jeans on once inside the airport.

Once making our way through the terminal and taking out thousands of koruny (yes, thousands - the current exchange rate is about 18 koruny to the USD and 25 to the EUR), we finally made it outside to buy our bus tickets - did I mention how cold it was?!! 

As we attempted to keep warm while waiting for the bus, a rather sketchy looking guy walked up to a man standing not 10' away from us and decided that he was going to take the magazine that the guy was clutching. At first we thought that maybe he was attempting to pick pocket the guy, in a very obvious way, but no, he just wanted the magazine. It got even better when the guy with the magazine starts all out fighting the would-be thief and attempts to punch him in the face. Luckily, the bus then shows up. Now, you'd think it would have ended there. Nope. The guy with the magazine gets on the bus towing his so-called attacker who is still trying to steal said magazine. I kid you not, the two kept fighting it out, both physically and in Czech, for a good 10 minutes. Nobody really knew what was going on, but the people sitting next to us assured us that this was definitely not normal. Finally, after a couple of stops and a passenger from the back said something, the bus driver got up and kicked the failed thief off. 

Welcome to Prague!! (Suffice it to say, despite the entertainment, Megan and I were glad to have Tom around.)

We finally made it to our hotel around 2a. Normally we would have crashed immediately, but we were all starving by this point. So after dropping off our gear and bundling up a bit more, we ventured back out to the only place that was open - McDonald's. Definitely not our first choice, or proudest moment, but we were starving and beggars can't be choosers, so we didn't complain, for the most part. Having refueled, we parted ways with Jack, he was staying at a hostel nearby, and went back to the hotel to sleep. 

Saturday morning we all got up around 9a following about 6 short hours of sleep. The three of us got ready and went upstairs for breakfast (nice perk of our hotel was the complimentary breakfast - good, hearty way to start the day and save a bunch of money, relatively speaking anyway) before meeting Jack in the lobby at 10a. 

A brief side note, three of my roommates had been to Prague the weekend before with Bus2Alps (1 of the many tour companies around hawking their wares), so they had shared their new found knowledge and we were more than happy to take the free advice. 

With that being said, we decided to take advantage of one of Jasmine's recommendations and made reservations for a free tour (yep, free - the best price!!) of the city at 10:30a. We rolled into Old Town Square fashionably late only to find that we were early. In other words, we still had to wait another 10 minutes or so. No worries, Old Town Square is rather captivating. 









Oh and, of course, there is a Starbucks. (Italian coffee far surpasses Starbucks. I know that's pretty sacrilegious for a Washingtonian and former partner - too bad, its true. I will admit that I miss the size of Starbucks coffee though, there is something to be said for a big cup of coffee - yep, definitely miss that.)



We were all quite impressed by the tour - the guide seemed to know his stuff, helped that he is clearly quite interested in all of it. From Prague's bloody history (and more broadly, the Czech's) to Kafka, we all agreed that we left with a far greater understanding and appreciation for the city. Good advice, Jasmine, thanks!!





























After the tour we decided to head back to Old Town Square for some food. It was Saint Martin's Day on Friday (don't ask me about him, because I don't know), and there were a bunch of vendors set-up as a festival of sorts apparently. Tom and Jack both got some more hot wine (we all had one on our tour - warm & yummy!!) along with potatoes with lots of meat and sauerkraut, and a cheese sampler. Megan and I both got a Trdelnik, a pastry with sugar and walnuts that's wrapped around a 2-3' long skewer and cooked over coals - delicious!! We also decided to share a grill cheese, cheese wrapped in some sort of dough that is then grilled and served on a slice of bread - it looked kind of like a baked Brie. I think we both agreed that the Trdelnik was better, but the grill cheese was good too, tasty smoked flavor.















Having satisfied ourselves enough to be able to wait for dinner, we decided to go exploring - Tom had a building he wanted to find, which turned out to be Milunic and Gehry's Dancing House. But first, Jack discovered his intrigue for all things Kafka on the tour, so we stopped in at the Kafka Bookshop so that he could pick up The Metamorphosis. We poked along on our walk ducking in wherever we wanted and just enjoyed the city. We tried on silly hats, found the Museum of Torture, and the Chocolate Museum, all before finding Tom's elusive building. Success!!















At this point we decided to go back to the hotel and rest for little while before dinner. I'll admit, I totally passed out (with the constant sounds of CNN in the background). Eventually we ventured back out into the cold and found our way back to a place that we had scoped out on our walk earlier. Tom and I both had a beer (Pilsner Urquell, of course), we were, after all, in Prague - they take their beer very seriously. We all wanted to try the local cuisine, which turns out to be a lot of meat, so Tom had the Pork Neck, Megan and I split the Beef Goulash and the Old Czech Plate (more meat, dumplings, & sauerkraut), and Jack also got the Old Czech Plate. All in all it was quite tasty!!













After dinner we sought out this place called The Beer Factory in Wenceslas Square. It is a bar where all the tables have beer taps in the middle of them so that you can pour your own drinks. Of course, your only option is Pilsner Urquell, but that's ok, it's a pretty cool idea for a bar. 





Sunday, our last full day in the city, we decided to go to Prague Castle. It boasts amazing views of the city and, I believe, currently houses the head of state. Within the castle complex is Saint Vitus' Cathedral - an absolutely incredible gothic cathedral.

































The one major mishap of the trip was when Megan and I went into the cathedral and proceeded to lose both Tom and Jack. We searched for them for a good 30-45 minutes before we finally decided to call it a draw. None of us were going to use our cells as we get charged an arm and a leg when we're out of country, so we figured that since we're all adults we'd just head back to the hotel and leave them a note. 

We headed back down the hill towards Charles Bridge and, succumbing to the urge, stopped at Starbucks. Given how cold it was outside, let me tell you, that chai tasted amazing!! 





Megan and I finally made our way, with our Starbucks, to the Charles Bridge - the final thing we were told was on the top of the list of things to see in Prague. It spans the Vltava river and was built under King Charles IV. Currently it hosts numerous artists, vendors, and too many tourists. Too bad we added to it, but we had to see it. The bridge is rather impressive and also hosts some pretty impressive views.







Having conquered the main sights, we decided to head to U Fleku, a restaurant that Tom had patronized last year and couldn't wait to go back to - we figured there might be a slight chance we'd find them there. Alas, they were not there, but we were successful in finding the restaurant and figured we'd probably come back for dinner (we were right!). 

We managed to make it back to the hotel and by this time were in pretty dire need of an afternoon snack, so we quickly dropped them a note and headed back to Old Town Square where we picked up some food. We did a little bit of shopping on our way back and then decided to stop in at Starbucks again as we had a bit of time to kill until we told the boys we would be back and our hotel didn't have wifi. If nothing else, Starbucks is good for free wifi!!

When we finally managed to make it back to the hotel Tom was already there relaxing in front of CNN. So we hung out until Jack showed up and then headed out to U Fleku for dinner. Another traditional Czech meal, but this one seemed a little cooler. Not only is the setting really cool, but as soon as they seat you there are two waiters that come by: one is carrying a tray of full beer steins and the other is carrying a tray full of shots - as I said before, they take their beer seriously (and apparently their liquor, too). This time Tom had the Pork Knuckle (he was all about he pork) along with the Beer Cheese that he'd been telling us all about for a couple months. Megan and I split a bowl of soup  and another plate of meat and dumplings. (I don't remember what Jack had.) A successful, tasty meal and we managed to fulfill Tom's request for U Fleku. Winning!!













After having satisfied Tom's U Fleku desires, we decided to go back to the hotel and play card games. Sounds boring, I know, but when you throw in a bottle of absinthe things get a little more interesting. Tom had purchased a spoon earlier in the day and we stopped on the way back for the necessary liquor and sugar cubes. I will admit that I was the quote unquote stick in the mud and didn't play along (I'd tasted it on Halloween so I wasn't at all curious and just wasn't in the mood), I played photographer instead, but it was fun to watch and we did have fun playing games. The shots were accepted with varying degrees of distaste, but all in all had little side effects - with one exception.









Tom got a little messy with his first pour (can't blame it on the absinthe) and spilled, but Jack was more than happy to clean it up!











We were lucky enough to have a lazy morning on Monday as our flight didn't leave for Rome until 2:45p. Uneventful trip home, but as always it was good to be home.

Thankful for a great weekend in Prague with even better friends!! Trying to soak it all in, I know these experiences and times with friends are what I need to remember and hold on to. 

Parents come in tomorrow - very excited to see them!! It's been a rather trying month, so it'll be good to get some family time. Looking forward to showing them around and seeing Rome through yet another lens. So here's to a safe flight for my parents and that everything is going well back in the States.

I love and miss you all!!

Ciao, ciao!!

Friday, November 11, 2011

Saturday, November 5, 2011

Tivoli

Last Friday was the one of the last SAI excursions of Fall Semester. There were probably about 20 of us and we spent the day in Tivoli, a small town about 30 km NE of Rome. Tivoli, or Tibur as it was originally known, was a popular holiday spot for Rome's upper class during the Renaissance, but today is perhaps best known for Villa d'Este and the Emperor Hadrian's Villa Adriana.

We met the group shortly after 9a at Trastevere station. This was the first time we've left from here, as a group anyway, and a handful of us were happy for the new location as it's only 2 blocks from our apartments - very convenient!! Anyway, once everyone showed up we hopped the train Tivoli, about a 2 hour ride with one quick transfer at Tiburtina. I am happy to say that it was an uneventful ride, I attempted to make some progress in a book for my Middle East class, but ended up giving in to the urge to get some extra sleep instead. Ah well . . .



Once we arrived in Tivoli, around 11:30a, our first stop was the Villa Gregoriana. This particular villa (I am borrowing the following historical information from the brochure we were given) was commissioned by Pope Gregory XVI after a flood in 1826. Originally designed to rebuild the Aniene River, Pope Gregory XVI decided to change it into a park integrating art and nature after the river overflowed its banks for a second time in 1835. Perhaps the biggest feat involved in the project was a tunnel that was dug through Mount Catillo to divert the river around Tivoli. The project concluded with the construction of the natural garden that is dominated by the acropolis with Vesta and Tiburno's Temples. Among the numerous things to be seen throughout the villa are the caves of Neptune and the Sirens, the ruins of the Villa di Manlio Vopisco, which pre date Christ, and the Great Waterfall.



















After a couple hours of exploring Villa Gregoriana, we were all pretty hungry, so Amy (she is one of the girls that works at the SAI office in town) took us to a restaurant she'd discovered earlier in the week while doing some research for the trip. They had good pizza that was reasonably priced and we all devoured our lunch.

Having refueled, some went next door for gelato, the rest of us just kind of hung out and talked for awhile before heading off to our final destination - Villa d'Este. Apparently we were running a little early though, how very American and non Italian of us, so Amy took us on a slight detour in order to get a view of the surrounding area.







Finally, we made it to the Villa d'Este. I don't remember all of the details of its history (I apologize because this is going to be bad), but it had something do with a guy who's grandfather (I believe) was the pope and was therefore fast tracked. Unfortunately, following the papal conclave he was not elected. Somehow this led to Villa d'Este, Este being the last name of the family. (I told you this was going to be bad!)

Anyway, my sloppy history leads me to tell you that the villa is now known for its fountains that, with few exceptions, all still operate through natural hydraulics. One of the fountains even contains a hydraulically operated organ that still plays music of the era on a daily set schedule. As impressive as the Villa d'Este is today, I can only imagine what it must have been. I found myself wandering the grounds trying to transport myself back to a different time.





























After the tour we headed back to the train station and actually managed to catch an earlier train than we had planned on - such good Americans, yet such bad Italians.



All in all a great day in Tivoli with lots of fun people!! And seeing as though it was, most likely, my last trip with SAI, I cannot possibly say enough good things about the excursions that they have put together for us - UH-MAZE-ING!!

Ok, time to delve into some law reviews before heading off to the Czech Republic for the weekend.

Ciao, Ciao!!

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Happy Halloween Roman Style - Toga Party!!

Happy Halloween!! (Where did October go??)

I am, admittedly, not that big on Halloween. It isn't that I don't like it, it just doesn't really do anything for me. I know a lot of people absolutely love it, but I have always been one of those people who could take it or leave it.

Alas, I am in Rome this year, so, naturally, I was curious about Halloween, Italian-style.

Yesterday was the first day that Chelsea was back in the apartment after having been gone for about a week and a half while her dad was in town, so she and Jules had decided to stay in and bake rather than go out. Camille was exhausted after a long day and not feeling the motivation to go out either and had therefore chosen to stay home and bake as well. Jasmine was the 1 of the 5 of us that was actually going full force and costume to celebrate Halloween.





I tell you all of this in order to help explain the next logical step - toga party!! Chelsea and Jules had the brilliant, yet hysterical idea to grab sheets and get in the ancient Roman spirit, so to speak. So as the baked brie that Camille had made was baking, we all got dressed up. Even better, Jules had just received a care package from home full of Halloween goodies and decorations - our apartment was getting quite festive! We sat around drinking wine and eating baked brie in our togas while we waited for the persimmon pie (the closest thing available to pumpkin) that Chelsea and Jules had whipped up to bake. Everything was delicious and we had a fun night enjoying each other's company over food and wine!













Somewhere amid all the baking and eating my friend Megan showed up to join us. We had decided that since neither one of us really wanted to go out (i.e., drink until all hours of the morning), but were both slightly curious as to what the night might contain, that we'd take an Italian stroll over to Campo dei Fiori (the American college student hang out). Of course, this somehow managed to turn into us stopping at the Glory Hole first (an apartment of 7 SAI guys that is the staple party house). There we met up with a group of 15-20 people that were well on their way to a great night!! Nick (we'd picked him up along the way), Megan, and I were all glad to be the sober ones - no joke. Anyway, eventually we managed to migrate to a club just off of Campo, don't remember the name, where we danced for a while before fleeing the constant influx of inebriation.

The next couple of hours were spent attempting to take care of a friend that had managed to get pretty messed up on absinthe (definitely not the highlight of our night), but again, it was good that we were all sober. As much as anyone hates being the babysitter, sometimes it's necessary and since everyone else was blitzed out of their minds it was good that we were there. We did learn that the Italian police and Carabinieri do not, apparently, take well to public intoxication - one thing they seem to be willing to do something about. Again, good that we were there.

When all was said and done, minus the one hiccup, we all had fun celebrating Halloween Roman-style!! And, to top things off, we get the day off to celebrate All Saints Day today - yay for Catholic states!! Back to class tomorrow and then off to Tivoli for a day trip with SAI on Friday, should be fun!!

Happy (Belated) All Hallows Eve!!

Ciao, Ciao!!

*Quick Reminder: I'm posting pictures to my MobileMe account, so if you want to see more pictures feel free to wander over there.