Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Pompeii Scavi

After two consecutive weekends of traveling I am happy to be in Rome for awhile. I spent my weekend writing papers, with a break thrown in Saturday for good measure - time to explore Pompeii and eat some more amazing Neopolitan pizza!!

Nick and I left early Saturday morning and, despite having to run to catch the train out of Termini, I am happy to report that we made it to Naples on time, in Italian terms, with no break-downs, transfers, or buses. We got into Napoli Centrale around 11a and immediately proceeded to find our way to the Circumvesuviana, the connection to Pompeii. It is a little over 2 hours to Naples, from there you have to hop the Circumvesuviana for another half-hour or so. The archaeological site of Pompeii is literally a block away from the station - helps add to the juxtaposition.

The main thing that people reference when talking about Pompeii is its size - now I know why. The place is massive. It is always rather surreal to walk through ancient ruins, trying to see them as they once were while, also, imaging what life must have been like. (Of course, this is always made slightly more difficult by the constant intrusion of tourists with their iPods, which are droning on with the most recent audio guides, while lugging around intimidatingly large digital cameras. Again, helps add to the juxtaposition.) As with so many experiences on this trip thus far, Pompeii is difficult to put into words, so I will leave you with pictures to tell the story. The one thing I will say is that it is quite impressive to think of what they were capable of close to 2000 years ago - Pompeii is hardly mere ruins, it is a city.












































We spent a good 2-3 hours wandering around and barely scratched the surface, but, alas, we were getting tired and hungry - not a great combination. So we hopped the train back to Naples and headed back to Pizzeria de Michele for some authentic pizza. (If you missed my previous post about Naples detailing Michele's, you can find it here.) Admittedly, we were not entirely sure that the pizza could live up to our memory, but, somehow that incredibly simplistic Margherita pizza was just as good as the first time - delicious is a major understatement. I will miss having access to Naples for that reason alone.



Finally, after having refueled, we headed back to Napoli Centrale and caught a train back to Roma Termini. Nick and I both napped on the ride home before being approached by 2 friends, one from the Ukraine and one from Poland; the language barrier made for an interesting exchange. I digress. All in all it was a long, but successful day for our first trip to Pompeii and our second trip to Naples.

Ciao, Ciao!!



Oh! And this is the German Shepherd puppy that I almost walked away from Pompeii with. He (my general assumption) was absolutely adorable and I wanted him so badly!! My rational side kicked in though and we left him behind. After all, not only would we have to figure things out in Rome, I'd then have to get him home!! Best souvenir ever, though!!

Thursday, October 27, 2011

Venezia

Last weekend, my roommate Jasmine, our friend, Nick, and I all went to Venice. None of us had ever been before and after the monsoon that had hit Rome Thursday, we were more than ready to get out of town!! We flew out Thursday evening and got into Venice around 9:30p.



As everyone knows, transportation is done almost entirely by boat in Venice - it was still kind of cool to see how we were to get to our hotel for the weekend.



Of course, as you can see from the pictures, it was dark when we got in, so its not like we actually got to see anything. The next morning we got up fairly leisurely and headed out for a day of exploring the historic island of Venice. (For those of you that may not know, the city is comprised of multiple islands, the historic center is on but one of them.) We were staying on Lido, though, so first we had to catch the vaparetto (a bus in any other city) to the main island.



While it had been quite nasty when we left Rome, we were extremely lucky with the weather in Venice. It was cold, but absolutely gorgeous, not a cloud in the sky!! I think one of the coolest things was actually being able to see the Alps from the Vaparetto. Not only was it a good reminder of just how far north we were, but it reminded me of one of the things that I love, and all too often take for granted, about home - the mountains!!



We started in what seemed like the only logical spot - Piazza San Marco. While piazzas are definitely becoming more and more commonplace to me, there is always something unique about each and every one. It was still early enough in the morning that it wasn't overly crowded yet, which made for a good inaugural experience. Of course, amidst all the vendors and lines of tourists were people (more tourists) feeding the pigeons - it seemed oddly fitting. So Jasmine and Nick took their touristy pictures just before we went inside Saint Mark's Basilica. (I'm happy to say that with the way my friends take pictures, there is no need for me to carry around my camera - I just steal theirs!! So thank you for the pictures everyone!!)









After we had fully explored the basilica and, to some extent, the piazza, we decided to get to know the city. I have come to learn that the best way to truly experience a new environment is to explore and, sometimes, even get lost - so that's what we did!! We had no map and no real idea of where we wanted to go, so we just wandered the paved streets of Venice all day - it was great!! I have to admit that I have heard mixed reviews of Venice, but Nick and I both agreed that it is by far and away, of the places we have been thus far, our favorite place in Italy. Mixed somewhere in between the combination of paved and water streets, there is just something about Venice that is incredibly beautiful and romantic, in spite of all the tourists. Of course, it is also nice that the historic part of the city is only open to pedestrians - it was slightly surreal to not have to worry about vespas popping up out of nowhere or listen to the incessant sounds of traffic.



(Little did we know that Venice has its own leaning tower. Slightly easier to understand in a city built on the water, but it is rather funny how difficult it seems for the Italians to get anything straight - a list of some sort seems to be par for the course.)



Eventually, after having tracked down some lunch (I forged ahead with my mission of experiencing truly Italian pizza), we made our way over to the Ponte Rialto. Nick really wanted to see it as it is the point from which a lot of pictures of Venice are taken as it spans the grand canal. There were way too many people and we basically had to fight our way through, but it was worth the effort - quite the view!!



After the Ponte Rialto, it was getting into late afternoon at this point and we'd been going nonstop all day, we decided to head back to the hotel for siesta, (seriously, probably one of the best ideas the Italians have ever had!!), before heading back out later for dinner. We all agreed that it was quite nice to be able to rest for a little while - being touristy is not super relaxing.

Anyway, we decided to take the opportunity to do some research on restaurants before leaving since we had no idea where to start. Of course, at this point, Jasmine realizes that she left her Rick Steves' Italy book at home, something that could have been quite helpful at this point in narrowing our search. (We were kicking ourselves over this for awhile.) There are a bajillion websites of course, but that required lots of sifting and none of us felt too excited about that. In the end, we found a place with little effort, but the moral of the story - if you have one, bring your guidebook, for reference purposes if nothing else.

I digress. Saturday we decided to start with Doge's Palace before exploring the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello. As it turns out, the decision to start early with Doge's was a good one, we got in before the majority of the tour groups. There is no real getting away from them, of course, but it was definitely better than had we started later. We walked right in when we got there and when we left there was a rather significant line - no lines = winning!! Anyway, it was quite impressive - definitely something to be seen if ever in Venice. The one slight disappointment of the weekend was that the Bridge of Sighs was covered in scaffolding (looked like it was under renovation or something), so we didn't get a good view of it. With that being said, we did get to walk across it and explore the prison itself - all I can say is dark, cold, and dank. For those who may not know, the Bridge of Sighs was the last view of the outside world prisoners got on their way to the prison (hence the sighs) and, on a completely different note, legend has it that if lovers kiss under the bridge at sunset they will be together forever.

So having gotten our fill of Doge's we decided that it was time to move on to the other islands, starting with Murano. Quick side note, when I first booked this trip I emailed a professor of mine back at SMC, she's fully Venetian, her family still lives there, to see if she could make any recommendations. Of course, she said there's so much to see that it's hard to point to anything specifically, but she did recommend the islands, so away we went! Murano is known for its glass and this was our first stop. I figured everyone had at least heard of Murano glass before, apparently I was wrong. Oh well, we all walked away with a very good understanding of the craft. We started with a demonstration by a glass blower (very cool) and then explored the surrounding shops.









Having explored the first island, we decided that it was time to move on to Burano and find a place for lunch. Burano is known, primarily, for its lace, but also for its distinctive color scheme. While the product itself may not have done a whole lot for me, there is definitely something to be said for its quality and beauty and it is pretty neat to be able to see someone making it by hand - talk about painstaking! Otherwise, Burano was really cool because of just how colorful it is - quite unique and fun!!







Our last stop of the day was at Torcello, considered to be the oldest continuously populated region of Venice. My professor recommended it for the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, apparently one of her friends was lucky enough to get married there. Torcello is pretty sparse now, but the Cathedral was beautiful and after all of the population we'd been immersed in all weekend, it was a nice break to see a slightly slower pace.





Finally, we got back on the vaparetto to Burano in order to transfer lines and make it back to Piazza San Marco where we were looking forward to dinner and wine. Perhaps the biggest difference, at least in terms of lifestyle, in Venice is the lack of any real sort of nightlife, everything starts closing up around 10p. Definitely quite different from Rome where most things really start opening around 10p, but it was also nice - it's funny how much Rome makes me miss the quiet, slower paced lifestyle.





Overall, it was a great weekend and I loved Venice!! I look forward to being able to go back and spend more time there one day - great city that I would definitely recommend (that is, as long as you're okay with boats - this is definitely not a city for anyone that gets even the slightest motion sickness).

Okay, time to refine my studious skills, so that I can play more!!

Ciao, ciao!!

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

A Weekend in Paris

Admittedly, last week sucked. Not only was the weekend, minus Friday and the Vatican, incredibly sad and tough, but I then had a week full of midterms. Boo!! Three midterms in one week, two on one day, Thursday - what a way to end the week. Suffice it to say, I was beyond excited to be spending the weekend in Paris. I needed a break and what better place to go than the eternal city!!

One of my roommates left Wednesday night (taking the night train), two more left early Thursday morning, and my last roommate left Thursday night - so I was the last to arrive Friday morning. I flew out bright and early and, as with just about everything in Europe, was a good twenty minutes late into Beauvais and hour late meeting up with my roommates. 

When I finally got into the city though I was almost euphoric. I love Paris and for the first time in more than six weeks I lost all feelings of anxiety - I've been to this city, I can speak in this city. I felt like I was home. 

They say that you come to Paris to fall in love, and 11 years ago I did just that, I fell in love with Paris. There is something absolutely magical about the city of lights where romance hangs in the air redolent of days gone by. J'adore Paris!! 



Friday, after meeting up with my roommates Jasmine and Camille at our hotel, we went walking. It was a beautiful, crisp, fall day and we wanted to get out and enjoy it!! We stayed in the heart of Montmartre (the red light district, for those of you unaware), just around the corner from Moulin Rouge, so first up was the Champs-Élysées et l'Arc de Triomphe. We did not go to the top of the arc, but the girls (as with everything) did take lots of pictures. 









After stopping for lunch we made our way over to the Tour Eiffel where, again, lots of pictures were taken. It is after all Paris and this is what the city is perhaps best known for. Jasmine wanted to go up, but Camille and I were both exhausted (she hadn't slept well and I'd been up since 3a) and the line was insane, so we decided against it. From there, Camille and I decided to head back to the hotel to rest while Jasmine went off to the Musée d'Orsay. 





That night the three of us went to dinner before the girls went to a show at the Moulin Rouge. I chose to pass as I just couldn't justify it to myself. Instead, I hate to admit it, but I went back and fell asleep - apparently that's what 3 hours of sleep will do to you. 



Saturday was another full day. We started out with breakfast and Sacré Coeur. I wanted to go back as I remember going before, but not really caring all that much. Not to mention that, if memory serves, it was being cleaned/restored when we were there before. We were there during mass and it was absolutely beautiful. 





Next, we took the metro over to Notre Dame. Camille had to leave in order to make it back to the hotel and catch her train by 3p, so we wanted to make sure that she could see the cathedral - you can't go to Paris and not see Cathédrale Notre Dame. C'est magnifique!!





After we said goodbye to Camille, Jasmine and I made our way over to the Louvre for a bit of a power tour. Obviously, it is a monster of a museum, but also, we were quickly running out of time before it closed. So after I was forced to pay for admission (all EU citizens, which I am thanks to my visa, are allowed free admission, but only between ages 18-25...boo!!), I grabbed a map and we bee-lined for Mona Lisa. Along the way we stopped and took pictures of Nike, the Goddess of Victory - she is gorgeous!! Mona Lisa, on the other hand, is, just as before, very small and flocked by a hundred people. Next up was Napolean's apartments. I remember my brother mentioning when we were there before that they are definitely worth seeing, so I made a point of making it up there this time - wow!! Then, last but not least, we made our way to Venus di Milo - again, another beautiful statue.











Finally, Jasmine was on a search all weekend for macaroons, so after we finished up at the Louvre, we made our way back to the Champs-Élysées and Ladurée. They are known for their macaroons and after another 20-30 minute wait, we finally got our own. They were pretty incredible!!





Later that night we went out to Chartier for dinner, a restaurant that my brother had taken my parents and I to before. It was prime European dinner time, i.e. 9p, so we had to wait about 30 minutes for a table, but we both had le canard et chou chantilly, so it was well worth the wait. Jasmine was very happy that she finally got her true French dining experience. 



After dinner we finished our trip off with a bottle of wine in front of the Tour Eiffel. I told Jasmine she had to see it at night and she wanted to be able to enjoy it with a bouteille de vin. A great way to end a great weekend - c'était incroyable!!







We flew out bright and early Sunday morning and made it back to Rome by about noon. I will admit that it was nice to get back to the warmer weather, although I will, as always miss Paris. 

Jusqu'à la prochaine, Paris, je t'aime!!
À bientôt!!

Oh yeah, and while I was away in Paris, this happened . . . good weekend to be gone.